After reciting his 'Ode to the Equinox,' Annapolis poet laureate Jefferson Holland, right, holds his burning sock high as the crowd cheers to kick off the sock-burning tradition at the Annapolis Maritime Museum & Park on Saturday.
After reciting his “Ode to the Equinox,” Annapolis poet laureate Jefferson Holland, right, holds his burning sock high as the crowd cheers to kick off the sock-burning tradition at the Annapolis Maritime Museum & Park on Saturday. (Tyrone Turner | NPR)

ANNAPOLIS, Md. – How do you welcome spring after one of the coldest winters in decades? In the Chesapeake Bay town of Annapolis, by burning your socks.

This annual festival, which draws hundreds, is held in the city’s Eastport neighborhood and timed to coincide with the spring equinox. It’s a potent blend of smelly socks, alcohol, music, piles of oysters and more than a hint of pyromania.

“I like to watch the socks burn, something about that,” acknowledges Mary Keller, a lifelong Annapolis resident.

Nicholas Buscemi shows off his Maryland state flag socks. He said he was not going to be burning these, but he had an old pair to throw into the fire.
Nicholas Buscemi shows off his Maryland state flag socks. He said he was not going to be burning these, but he had an old pair to throw into the fire. (Tyrone Turner | NPR)

For nearly 50 years, the Annapolis Oyster Roast & Sock Burning has marked the long-awaited return of warmer days to the East Coast boating hub — and time for sailing season to begin again.

Kelly Swartout, vice president of development at the Annapolis Maritime Museum & Park, explains that it all started in 1977 “during one of the coldest seasons we had.” The bay froze over and “a local sailor got so fed up with the cold weather that he decided he was going to take his socks off and burn them.”

Bob Turner, a boatyard worker, is credited with starting the tradition. According to Baltimore magazine, Turner found two things unbearable — winter and wearing socks — so he decided to toss his into a bonfire. He told his coworkers, “‘I’m not putting them on again until next winter,'” he recalled to the magazine in 2015.

Many here in Annapolis are equally fed up after this past winter, using the same word to describe it: brutal.

How brutal? The start of the Annapolis Yacht Club’s annual “Frostbite” sailboat race series — so named because it runs in the winter — had to be delayed this year because there was too much ice in Spa Creek and the Severn River, where the races are held. It’s the first time that’s happened in 20 years, according to Dick Neville, co-chair of the race committee. “We had a real old-style winter and it caught us a little bit by surprise,” he says. “But it is what it is. And when the creek freezes, you can’t race.”

But today, the sun is shining and it feels like spring at this beach festival. Live music by the Eastport Oyster Boys and the Naptown Brass Band blares from the bandstand.

The Naptown Brass Band got the crowd moving at the Annapolis Oyster Roast & Sock Burning, as did the Eastport Oyster Boys. The annual event draws hundreds of people to celebrate the spring equinox by setting fire to their socks.
The Naptown Brass Band got the crowd moving at the Annapolis Oyster Roast & Sock Burning, as did the Eastport Oyster Boys. The annual event draws hundreds of people to celebrate the spring equinox by setting fire to their socks. (Tyrone Turner | NPR)

Scot Labin of Annapolis says he’s been coming here for years and is eager to get his boat out of storage and back in the water. He holds up what he describes as “probably a blended nylon cotton sock” with a hole in it. Labin details the elaborate process of elimination that determines which socks to bring to the festival each year.

“You’ve got the Egyptian cotton socks that your mom got you — those are going into the fire,” he says. With remote work these days, “you don’t need the dress socks anymore. So, you know, those are going on the fire as well.”

A child throws her socks on the fire during the annual Annapolis Oyster Roast & Sock Burning at the Annapolis Maritime Museum & Park on Saturday.
A child throws her socks on the fire during the annual Annapolis Oyster Roast & Sock Burning at the Annapolis Maritime Museum & Park on Saturday. (Tyrone Turner | NPR)

Labin says he’s also a big fan of oysters — a Chesapeake Bay favorite — and there are copious amounts of them here.

Mike Dicus is an oyster expert; he’s been shucking them for 35 years. He says he has already shucked “a couple thousand” for this event and expects to go through many more before it’s finished. Referring to the part of Maryland that lies on the eastern side of the bay, Dicus demonstrates what he calls “the Eastern Shore stabbing style” — you come in from the front, not the back, “give it a little wiggle,” and cut the two muscles.

Mike Dicus, center, has been shucking oysters for 35 years. An oyster shucking contest was part of the event.
Mike Dicus, center, has been shucking oysters for 35 years. An oyster shucking contest was part of the event. (Tyrone Turner | NPR)

The event’s culmination nears as Annapolis poet laureate Jefferson Holland recites his “Ode to the Equinox,” which explains that revelers “burn their socks at the equinox” because: “Through the spring and the summer and into the fall/They go around not wearin’ any socks at all/Just stinky bare feet stuck in old deck shoes/Whether out on the water or enjoyin’ a brew.”

Hundreds of sock-wielding people crowd the area around the Annapolis Maritime Museum & Park for the Annapolis Oyster Roast & Sock Burning on Saturday. The annual tradition began in the late 1970s to celebrate the spring equinox.
Hundreds of sock-wielding people crowd the area around the Annapolis Maritime Museum & Park for the Annapolis Oyster Roast & Sock Burning on Saturday. The annual tradition began in the late 1970s to celebrate the spring equinox. (Tyrone Turner | NPR)

With the last line of the poem hanging in the air, it’s the signal for the main event: sock burning. Not an orderly affair, but a free-for-all. Dozens of socks of all colors and fabrics arc overhead and rain down on the sandy pit. Some land squarely in the flames, others miss the mark and have to be helped into the fire.

The annual festival is “really just an excuse to drink,” says Labin, holding a beer and obviously feeling a bit flush. “But build it around sock burning and bringing out the old and ringing in the new and you’ve got a good party.”

Transcript:

AILSA CHANG, HOST:

It’s finally spring. For many people across the country, it was a long, cold winter. And in Annapolis, Maryland, people gather every year at this time to usher in the warmer weather by making a ritual sacrifice of their socks. This springtime tradition is the unofficial start of the sailing season on the Chesapeake Bay. NPR’s Scott Neuman has this story.

(SOUNDBITE OF SAIL FLUTTERING)

SCOTT NEUMAN, BYLINE: Manuel Skow and his race crew aboard Bear Away are wrestling sails back under their cover after a frustrating day out on the water.

MANUEL SKOW: Today was a beautiful day, other than there was no wind. So we didn’t race.

NEUMAN: Today, it was lack of wind, but a few weeks ago, ice was the problem. Skow is competing in the Annapolis Yacht Club’s annual Frostbite Series. As the name suggests, it’s not for fair-weather sailors, but this year has tested even Skow and his fellow Frostbiters. The winter’s lingering cold delayed the racing season.

SKOW: The problem is, we had so much ice. Really, two weeks ago was our first race.

NEUMAN: A week later, the sun is shining and it feels like spring. At the nearby Annapolis Maritime Museum in the city’s Eastport neighborhood, a ceremonial burning of socks marks the unofficial start of boating for the year. Kelly Swartout is the museum’s vice president of development. She says it all began with a harsh winter like this one.

KELLY SWARTOUT: So the whole premise of the sock burning started back in 1977 during one of the coldest seasons we had. It’s when the bay froze over. Everything was happening. And a local sailor was so fed up with all the cold weather that at the spring equinox, he decided he was going to take his socks off and burn them.

(SOUNDBITE OF MUSIC)

NEUMAN: That single act of seasonal defiance has led to an enduring tradition. Today, hundreds of people are out on the beach for a party, hoping to cast off the need for winter socks. There’s live music, alcohol and a Chesapeake Bay favorite – oysters.

(SOUNDBITE OF OYSTERS BEING TIPPED OUT)

SCOTT WILKE: We’ve already had several raw, a couple of baked. Couldn’t be any better this year.

NEUMAN: Scott Wilke is originally from Glasgow, Scotland, but now lives in Mason Neck, Virginia. He’s been coming to the sock burning in Annapolis for 15 years now. He clues me in on how the socks are chosen.

How do you make the selection? I mean, you don’t pick the brand-new ones, I assume.

WILKE: Hopefully not. No, you dig in the bottom of your drawer or the bottom of your closet somewhere, and you – hopefully you find one that’s got, you know, one hole in it or two holes in it. Hopefully not moth-ridden.

NEUMAN: Poet laureate of Annapolis Jefferson Holland recites a poem as the flaming pit on the beach crackles nearby.

JEFFERSON HOLLAND: So if you sail into the harbor on the 21 of March, and you smell a smell like Limburger mixed in with laundry starch…

(LAUGHTER)

HOLLAND: …You’ll know you’re downwind of the Eastport docks, where they’re burning their socks for the equinox.

(CHEERING)

NEUMAN: It’s the main event. Not an orderly affair, but a free-for-all with dozens of socks of all colors and fabrics arcing overhead and raining down on the sandy pit. Some land squarely in the flames. Others miss the mark and have to be helped into the fire. It’s a fitting end to a brutal winter and time to get back on the water. Scott Neuman, NPR News.

(SOUNDBITE OF MAN LIKE PAYPA SONG, “THE LAST EPISODE”)